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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.